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A Poolside Report from City Center

madhedgefundtrader's picture




 

I write this to you from my poolside cabana at the Aria at City Center, the newest and hottest hotel in Las Vegas, against a background of blaring rock music and helicopters buzzing overhead every five minutes. It’s amazing what passes for a swim suit these days, and some of the tattoos were nothing less than shocking. 

I’m here because at a throw away rate of $120/night for a room that is worth at least $500, and discount fares offered by the airlines, it is cheaper to spend a weekend in Sin City than it is to stay home. Hotel flacks glibly tell reporters that with an 80% occupancy rate, they are near profitability. But staff tell me those numbers are achieved only because 20% of those rooms have been mothballed and taken off the market.

The glitzy, ultra modern, Cesar Pelli designed, 16.8 million square foot, 63 acre complex occupies a quarter mile on the city’s fabled Strip between the Bellagio and the Monte Carlo Hotels, and will unquestionably become one of the hedonist Wonders of the World. It includes the Mandarin Oriental, Aria, Veer, Vdara, and Harmon Hotels, offering 4,000 rooms and 2,600 condos. They will be adorned by two casinos, a convention center, a new theater for an Elvis themed Cirque du Soleil show, and parking for 6,900.

I wandered in amazement though the gargantuan “Crystal” shopping mall, where half of the retail space was boarded up in the most tasteful way possible, and marquee luxury names like Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Tiffany, and Louis Vuitton were manned by elegantly dressed and earnest staff, but bereft of a single customer. Despite hiring 12,000 since opening in December, service at the Aria is still glacially slow. My inside guy in Vegas, a blackjack dealer at Caesar’s, tells me this is because it is an all union house. The city is also rife with rumors that the oddly titling Harmon will have to be torn down and rebuilt due to construction flaws.

I spent my free time looking at condos that were initially offered at $600,000, but now could be had for $200,000. To see them, I had to drive through “ghost suburbs”, blighted with dusty, abandoned strip malls and tumbleweed blown office parks that might have been a scene out of a Twilight Zone episode.

Still, how can you hate Vegas? The French toast at hotel Paris, France was to die for, and my masseuse at the Aria, Monique, is clearly God’s gift to mankind.

You really have to wonder what MGM-Mirage’s Kirk Kerkorian, Dubai World, and their long suffering lenders were thinking when they ponied up $8.5 billion for this venture. Excess is in abundant over supply here, and they clearly thought the good times would go on forever. Instead, they created the worst commercial real estate disasters in human history.

Thanks for the great weekend, Kirk!

To see the data, charts, and graphs that support this research piece, as well as more iconoclastic and out-of-consensus analysis, please visit me at www.madhedgefundtrader.com . There, you will find the conventional wisdom mercilessly flailed and tortured daily, and my last two years of research reports available for free. You can also listen to me on Hedge Fund Radio by clicking on “This Week on Hedge Fund Radio” in the upper right corner of my home page.

 

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Tue, 06/22/2010 - 22:06 | 428329 Gimp
Gimp's picture

American ingenuity, we build a city in the middle of the desert which was once used for nuclear testing with a limited water supply  and people travel for thousands of miles to see it.

Are we insane as a culture? Maybe but we have fun.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 22:05 | 428328 Milestones
Milestones's picture

Ah, look back time. First trip to Vagas from L.A. in 1953 (Yea it dates me but so f****** what!!) Flamingo the first thing ya hit then I believe the Stardust and Desert Inn were there--maybe the Riveria--memory kinda fades. had to walk damn near every where--few cabs & expensive. Need to take a leak--go behind one of the catsus along the strip.At 17 you could walk a long ways. After an army stint, lady friend worked for the L.V. Dist Atty. Drove up there from L.A. couple of times a month. Comp tickets for every show you wanted @ D.A.'s  office. Sinatra & Basie ringside etc. Rooms $9.00/ nite (we had freebees) All you could eat after midnight $1.95.

Now, I drive to L.A. to see old friends and won't even stop. L.V. is a shithole compared to the late 50's early 60's. Crap city, crap people and destined to death. Live in Colorado now. Water for L.V., Phoenix, Tucson--adious. L.A.? City of 3,000,000 maybe. It had 1.5 Million when I am talking about. Man, talk about an incredible time to be alive and in that city. Bye bye American dream. Demographics are a bitch. Sorry for the disjointed look back.  Milestones

 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 22:34 | 428379 SPONGE
SPONGE's picture

Las Vegas: the butthole of western civilization 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 21:16 | 428264 laughing_swordfish
laughing_swordfish's picture

Little perspective here.

As I live here in Sin City, I can vouch for the fact that everything at the new CityCenter complex is pretty much as MHFT described it.

I had a colleague visit me from LA recently in connection with a trade show and we decided to eschew the new place because we got an even more unbelieveable deal at traditional Las Vegas standby Caesar's.

How does $49/night on a weekend sound?

Even so, the pool was filled with unbelieveable hotties in all manner of skimpy 'kinis.

But, the wife was remarking to me about the Tatoos on most of the young men. It seems personal illustration is all the rage.

But, I do agree that this places' Achilles Heel is the water situation - Lake Mead is expected to run dry by 2016.

After that, then what?

 

Krvtkpt. Laughing swordfish

DKM Trading Division

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 21:13 | 428259 slingshot
Tue, 06/22/2010 - 20:47 | 428221 Kreditanstalt
Kreditanstalt's picture

What do you mean "a room that is WORTH at least $500..."?

"Worth" is whatever is marked to market.  Whatever the market will bear.  It doesn't seem to be bearing much more than $120 right now...if we've learned anything during this crackup-boom-under-way, it's the difference between PRICE and VALUE...

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 14:54 | 427351 PhattyBuoy
PhattyBuoy's picture

Vegas - who cares ...

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 14:32 | 427262 seventree
seventree's picture

Water is the ultimate doomsday event approaching Las Vegas. Lake Mead's surface level is steadily dropping and once it falls below the city's intakes, that source will be cut off because further drainage could disrupt power generation for millions. That leaves groundwater which is pretty much gone in a wide radius around the city. One plan under consideration is a network of pumps drawing from the rest of the state; the downside is that wells would go dry for small towns, ranchers, and rural homeowners. Right now Vegas has the political clout to roll over most objections, but eventually they will reach the borders and get little sympathy surrounding states. This is not an over-the-horizon scenario. The end is approaching and when it arrives other problems won't matter.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 21:40 | 428296 martinluther
martinluther's picture

In addition to cutting off Belagio's fountains, wouldn't a dropping Lake Mead put a crimp in the Strip's nightly light show? I think Mead's other purpose is to provide water to spin the hydro-electric turbines of Hoover Dam.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 15:37 | 427462 akak
akak's picture

The mere existence of the city of Las Vegas is an abomination.

Never mind the hedonism, the crassness, the worship of gross excess --- it was nothing but short-sighted insanity of the highest order to build a city of 1,000,000+ in the middle of one of the hottest and driest regions of the world.  The unsustainability of the place is self-evident to anyone with more than a one-year time horizon.  Like Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Riyadh, Las Vegas is destined to be little more than a depopulated desert ruin that future visitors will marvel at, much as we marvel at Persepolis and Petra today.

As for those short-sighted fools who chose to live in such a fundamentally unliveable place, lemmings who followed each other into a sun-baked Hell, whose property values will relentlessly continue to fall even as their utility bills climb to the sky, I have no sympathy whatsover. 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 21:19 | 428268 Ned Zeppelin
Ned Zeppelin's picture

I agree and leave to the perpetually noxious MHFT to file one of his reports from this soon to be mothballed town.

Honestly, who cares about Las Vegas?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 15:38 | 427461 akak
akak's picture

(Fucking slow site made me inadvertently double post --- AGAIN!)

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 14:01 | 427170 benb
benb's picture

Most things considered it’s kind of impressive that they can still maintain the happy face.

CRE - I cringe at the beating the big players are taking. Condos to be had at 33% original asking price?... That’s a haircut, enema, and circumcism in one.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 13:56 | 427153 kaiserhoff
kaiserhoff's picture

Italian proverb

 

Four gamblers couldn't support a chicken.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:57 | 426977 poorold
poorold's picture

"I’m here because at a throw away rate of $120/night for a room that is worth at least $500..."

 

obviously not.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:53 | 426963 tempo
tempo's picture

Pretty good since I bought puts several days ago.  BP will survive longer than Las Vegas since it will leave America.  This will leave the 1 million+ lawyers  suing each other until they sink into the GoM toxic waste.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:23 | 426887 Paul Bogdanich
Paul Bogdanich's picture

"Still, how can you hate Vegas?"

 

Very simply.  it's populated by low-life idiots from the valley.  They don't wander into the better neighberhoods when in CA so why should well-mannered people suffer to go to their low rent disneyland?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:41 | 426925 akak
akak's picture

"it's populated by low-life idiots from the valley."

From just exactly which valley would that be?  There are a few hundred thousand vallies in the USA, you know.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:16 | 426872 Apostate
Apostate's picture

"Losers average losers."

-Paul Tudor Jones

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:40 | 426791 Geoff-UK
Geoff-UK's picture

Please ZH leaders:  don't post any bullshit about Vegas RE being overbuilt, Deboralee Lohrenzana's scorching tits, or whether the iPad will save Apple.  We have Bloomberg for that useless bullshit.  Thx 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:37 | 426913 akak
akak's picture

Hear hear!

Especially concerning the juvenile, puerile and oversized soft-porn postings of a certain permabullshitting permabull named Leo.  If that irrelevant crap does not constitute spam, I don't know what would (except for the incessantly posted links by the evil clown SuperSpammer, er, SuperCycle).

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:34 | 426779 P-K4
P-K4's picture

"I spent my free time looking at condos that were initially offered at $600,000, but now could be had for $200,000."

 

Six months later, "I spent my time looking at condos that could be had for less than $100,000 but were once priced in the $600,000 range. Now that water costs so much in this town, no one takes a bath anymore unless they buy real estate. Also, with the oil drilling moratorium and cap-n-tax BS, energy runs over $1000 a month for 1200 sq ft condo. Last, without immigration reform, the drug cartels have started to displace the mafia... and finally, a caricature of Harry Reid was commissioned to a wooden nickel after his loss to Ms. Engle." 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:32 | 426776 b_thunder
b_thunder's picture

"...discount fares offered by the airlines"  - excuse me, but no private G4?  not even a LearJet?  What kind of a hedgie wannabe r u?   please don't tell us this is all short-term inconvenience casued by your investments in the BP common.

anyway, $600k condo for $200k?  hard to believe, unless $600k was wastly overpriced, even at the very top of the market.  i would buy it for 30-50k, but only if there was no property tax.  and they'd ahve to pay me another $200k to live there.  middle of the friggin' desert next to nuke test sites...  there is plenty of other "sin cities" around the globe...   if i could afford to retire now, i'd pick Rio...  if i had $100+mil, then once condo in Rio and one in Monte Carlo...  

 

 

 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 17:40 | 427813 The Rock
The Rock's picture

"What kind of a hedgie wannabe r u?"

Hey, at least he rented a cabana.  That's gotta be about 5 benjamins for the day.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:41 | 426794 itsgold
itsgold's picture

If I saw my financial advisor driving around in a $500,000+ car or flying around in a private jet, I would take my money and run away as fast as I could.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:29 | 426772 Yes We Can. But...
Yes We Can. But Lets Not.'s picture

What sort of geiger counter readings are you getting at your hotel?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 15:02 | 427380 Mitchman
Mitchman's picture

LMAO!

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:15 | 426746 Internet Tough Guy
Internet Tough Guy's picture

Completely unsustainable in every way; economic, ecologic, societal. Vegas is toast.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:21 | 426758 Mr Lennon Hendrix
Mr Lennon Hendrix's picture

What he said.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:15 | 426745 Internet Tough Guy
Internet Tough Guy's picture

Completely unsustainable in every way; economic, ecologic, societal. Vegas is toast.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:09 | 426732 newstreet
newstreet's picture

and what about the yen?  95, then 100, then 120.  What aboutthat trade?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:09 | 426731 tmftdoyle
tmftdoyle's picture

my favorite mgm head scratch. sold stock to dubai at 84 (great trade), then turned around and started buying the stock within a month or so in the $90's. Uh, guys, what finance textbook did that come out of. Of course, all the sycophantic analysts applauded the repurchase.

 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 13:06 | 427005 Bam_Man
Bam_Man's picture

And if I recall correctly, Kerkorian was also loading up on GM during 2005-2006.

Alzheimers or just dementia?

Wed, 06/23/2010 - 01:04 | 428534 Bear
Bear's picture

Yes and no ... By the end of 2006, he exited all GM ownership

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:50 | 426698 Mitchman
Mitchman's picture

Was there a point to this article?  How yesterday's BP trade working out for you?

Wed, 06/23/2010 - 15:11 | 429693 lugnutwrench
lugnutwrench's picture

Was there a point to this article?  How yesterday's BP trade working out for you?

PWNED!

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:11 | 426860 jefftheshark
jefftheshark's picture

Is a Vegas vacation tax deductable if a ZH article is published?

If so Tyler, could you publish the article I'd like to write about the economic conditions in Maui?

JTS

 

Wed, 06/23/2010 - 01:02 | 428532 Bear
Bear's picture

Maui ... It's good here in Maui

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 20:37 | 428192 Thorny Xi
Thorny Xi's picture

Hummm ... is my new computer deductible if my comment is published? Or do I have to promote my blog in the comment, so it's a marketing expense?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:48 | 426691 williambanzai7
williambanzai7's picture

Sounds like a long opportunity. Where do we sign up?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:47 | 426689 FunnyMoney
FunnyMoney's picture

"oddly titling Harmon"  -- sign me up.

 

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:39 | 426660 stev3e
stev3e's picture

Wasn't ths same thing posted about a week ago by madhedgefundtrader?

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:35 | 426654 yabs
yabs's picture

if hedonism and narcism can be defined as religion yes

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:30 | 426643 Rogerwilco
Rogerwilco's picture

If I want to gamble and relax, I go to Reno. Vegas is like a leaking breast implant, phony, disgusting, and doomed to fail.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 10:21 | 426625 ZackAttack
ZackAttack's picture

Archaeologists 20,000 years hence will study Las Vegas and conclude that it must have had some religious significance, since it would clearly be impractical to build and maintain a city this size in the middle of the desert.

And they will be right, after a fashion.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:13 | 426820 Rusty Shorts
Rusty Shorts's picture

 - as your attorney, I advise you to watch the Movie "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm7r491n-8o&feature=related

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 20:38 | 428194 lettuce
lettuce's picture

and to rent a very fast car with no top...

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 14:54 | 427350 Mitchman
Mitchman's picture

Agreed.  Great Avatar.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 11:06 | 426725 Mitchman
Mitchman's picture

If you have not read Hunter Thompson's "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas", you owe it to yourself to do so.  A great book.

Tue, 06/22/2010 - 12:13 | 426869 ZackAttack
ZackAttack's picture

Oh yes, one of my favorites from that era.

 

Vegas, of course, is The Main Nerve of the American Dream.

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